I had some issues with leaks from the master. I got 2 new Hel washers and it seems to have solved the problem.
Only thing left is to figure out how to bleed the small Scootrs inboard slave cylinder. It’s no obvious clear way of doing it.
Right now I’ve put a strap on the front brake to let the air get up an liquid down very slowly by the forces of physics.
Since I wanted to keep the original looks of the scooter handlebar as clean as possible and I’d like the rear brake light to engage when braking with the front brake, I’ve opted for the old PX style switch.
The way to go is to cut the brake outer and stick this plastic thing in between. Connect the cables as you would on the foot brake switch and just thread a control cable through.
In the last delivery I had received a hydraulic hose with the wrong angle on the banjos. After returning it I received a replacement with straight angled banjos.
I connected it up to see if the length of the cable and the angle of the banjos would work. Will have to correct the alignment and angle since it touches the dust cap right now. I may say that the setup looks solid and will probably work. 
I do get a good clearance from the tyre and that’s most important. I wouldn’t want them to touch.
It will be interesting is to see how the Scootrs slave cylinder works. It is held in place by the original circlip.
I will, on this project, try out a semi hydraulic conversion. I bought the appropriate master originating from a modern Piaggio scooter. I run a shorter hose bought from beedspeed and I have a shortened of front brake cable to operate the master.
I use a scootrs hydraulic slave popped into the slot where the break mechanism used to be. It’s held in place by a renewed circlip. Hopefully this set-up will give me enough braking power without to much hassle or fiddle with adjustments.
I got the plate holding the master out of eBay, makes the job easier!
Today I’ve refitted the front hub, wheel and dampers to the scooter. I’ve changed all the original nuts to stainless nylocs. No dome nuts. Tested with one spring washer and alternative with a brick and spring washer. Seems like the nyloc locks up nice on both occasion.
In the hub I’ve changed the disc, pads, locking washer and oil seals. Covered some parts in grease and closed it up.
I have converted the hub with a hydraulic calliper. I did have to file off some metal all around to make it drop in nice and evenly. Next ill fit a semi master behind the horncast.
The dampers are from scootrs and I’ve had to change the bottom bushes to fit them on my original hub.
Next up is to add the 4 small windows somehow. Tried and failed the first time. Will try again.
Lambretta TV175 Series 3 