Here you see the rear brake and layshaft setup plus the retaining plates for the oil seal.
The SIL layshaft I had sitting on the shelves for some year finally got used and looks ever so shiny brand new.
The brake pivot and retainers are leftothers from an older rebuild that was changed to a jockeys setup. Brake shoes of Indian origin. 
I didn’t have any brake arm or could find one from friends and all shops were out of SIL ones. So this one from a Servetta Will have to do.
Looking good!
So let us move on to the crank and mag housing.
For this scooter engine I though long and hard on what type of crank I would use. At the time of writting there were reports coming into the forums that the so popular MEC cranks started to brake rods or twist webs. The other makes of quality cranks were out of stock.
I contacted Rich who sells the Granturismo 200 kit and he had been experimenting with cranks. His crank consists of Indian SIL webs that have been machined down and had plastic inserts added. The rod is a 110mm Japanese one and the stroke is standard 58. I decided that this prototype crank will do. Rich is a top guy and I trust his expertise on this matter. The crank will hold for the engines use and power.
Fully seated and the plastic insert visible.
I used a puller and the original bolt. Since this is a SIL engine the bolt and washer are 2 separate parts unlike the Italian one piece item.
With the crank fully in it was time to rebuild the mag housing. I changed the oil seals and bearing (the bearing is 2 piece one where one piece goes on to the crank (they are supposed to be renewed simultaneously) and added a large amount of grease. This bearing gets no lubrication at all what so ever from the engine so it is vital to have high melting grease richly applied here before assembly.
With out the mag housing: 
With the mag housing :
And the last view with the installed crank and mag: 
So, since I’m going for the vastly superior Grantourismo GT200 KIT I might as well port the transfers on min SIL casing.
I want to get some extra oomph out of this engine since it’s destined to become my mile crunching rally going scooter.
I used the 2,5 mm packing plate that came with the kit to accommodate the 110 conrod on the crank. I just used a regular black felt marker pen to mark where I need to Dremel the transfer ports.
This is the first time I actually used a Dremel. I’ve had it for a while laying around in a drawer. So now is a good time to learn how to use it.
I moved the engine case to my friends garage for some moral support and got right to it.
After almost 1 hour of very carefully Dremel’ing I’ve reached the end result that I’m happy with. This should allow the kit to utilize the full power of it’s transfers and not limit it to what the standard Indian transfers can do.
As you see I didn’t do anything to the lower sides of the transfers thinking it aligned good enough. I also didn’t want to make the walls to thin.
Really happy with the work on the transfer.
To bad I won’t have any before and after experience of the power!
So let us start the rebuild, first up on my list were the bearings all around the engine. All the original Indian items were changed to quality items. Now, nowadays nothing is produced in Europe except for expensive high street fashion brands. The bearings in the SIL engine, which dated mid 2005, were of the brand SKF India. The replacements I found, also SKF, from a dealer either has no country stamped on them or they are made somewhere in the far east (China, India, Vietnam).
Even if they state they are made in Europe, it’s probably either assembled or packaged here. They components are probably made in the far east.
Now On Oil seals I always go for either ROLF or Viton. They are supposed to withstand all the ethanol in modern fuel. Maybe I’m falling for a hoax here but for a small price difference I rather ease my mind.
The second thing to change is the silent blocks. Now while digging around at forums on the internet I learned that, when it comes to tuned engines, all of the silent blocks behave just as good as the other. There is a possibility to buy a longer silent block for the kick start side but to a higher expense making it not worth the gain you would experience.
So, SIL blocks were chosen.
The casing was heated up with a heat gun. Made sure to take my time on this step in order for the silent blocks to go in easily and not risking braking the case. It hapens if your are not carefull and do the job properly. Expensive to weld back on.
Here we are, in the middle of February. Wishing it will be summer again in order to ride our beloved Lambrettas. At least I do!
Here is an image from the last summers Mods Vs Rockers. Enjoy.
Lambretta TV175 Series 3 